I never thought I would ever find myself climbing up the side of the Cutty Sark – or up the side of anything to be honest at this point of my life – but now that the famous clipper has opened its rigging for potential sailors to ascend, I was up there like Jack Sparrow being chased by Captain Barbossa and his crew of skeletons.
This is the first time that this experience has been offered at the Cutty Sark (named after a witch who was very fast at catching her prey) and it was an offer I couldn’t refuse. My first job was to prepare for the climb. I knew I wasn’t scared of heights, which is a necessary fear factor to overcome before attempting this task. I did, though, need to ensure that I didn’t get halfway up and realise that I lacked the stamina to continue so early morning gym sessions on the stair machine gave me the last bit of confidence needed before I slipped into the gilet, helmet and harness.
On arrival at the ship, I was taken below deck to discuss all the security issues before being kitted up. My nerves were steady and my excitement was rising. Once I had the full gear on, I was led up to the deck while getting a history of the Cutty Sark on the way. This was the coldest day of spring and it had actually snowed on my way there so the wind chill hit me as soon as I stepped outside.
I was shown where I would be climbing from and where to – a platform way, way up – and then had to actually step out onto the outside of the vessel. Now it had got real.
There were certain ropes you could not step on and certain things you could not hold on to. I didn’t ask why, I just made sure I didn’t break those rules. I now discovered that ropes are not steady and were swaying in the wind. Only slightly, and not a fraction as much as they would have been on the high seas when 14-year-old boys with no shoes scurried up and down this rigging but its movement was a reality check for me. I counted my blessings and moved on.
All the recent training paid off as I made steady progress up. There was a continuous stream of advice and motivational support from both above and below: “Move your leg to the left… Hold the ratline on the right… You’re doing well, keep going.” I wasn’t afraid of looking up or down to see where these voices were coming from but I chose to remain focussed on where my hands and feet were going. I knew I was nearing my destination when the voices got closer. “Just a couple more steps” I heard, and very soon I was standing on a small platform with two of the climbing crew.
They took some photos and I took some photos and then I was asked if I wanted to walk out to the end of the yardarm. It was bitterly cold and the wind was blowing hard and there didn’t seem to be much to hold on to or stand on out there but how could I come this far and not have the full experience? And so I sidled along where so many less fortunate than I had once scuttled.
Yes, of course there was a safety line attached to me at all times but I never thought about it because I reckoned it would only get me thinking that it might fail so I trod carefully all the time, making that climb as if my life was in my hands. Descending was easy. I was lowered down to the ground in the harness where it took a little while to get my land legs back again.
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The climb was exhilarating; I can’t remember the last time I had such an adrenaline rush. Would I do it again? Absolutely. I know this experience is not for everyone but for those that want to feel really alive then this is for them. The views from high up on the mizzenmast are spectacular. The Bucket Listability of doing this is fantastic.
The Cutty Sark, Greenwich, SE10. Admission: Adult from £41, child (12-15) from £26, student from £31. Up to 50% off for members.
www.rmg.co.uk
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