Bringing the Italian coast to Bermondsey Street

What do you think of when you think of Italy?

When I think of Italy, I think of the zesty lemons of Sorrento, I think of drinking Aperol Spritzes in a piazza – drops of condensation dripping down the glass, I think of sauces made from tomatoes crushed by hand and only the best olive oil. I think of sun-dried and layers upon layers, of egg yolks and the richest Parmesan. I fall in love with the place, the feel, the food with every thought. And when a restaurant brings a taste of that to your home turf, that’s pretty special.

On a particularly dreary day of April showers, I could’ve been sitting in a secluded restaurant off an Italian side street, sipping vino and waiting for my antipasti…

I entered Baccalà soaked through, protected from the rain only from the shared umbrella of my dinner companion. The restaurant offered us a welcome refuge; the host took us to a table along a long bench of diners, each person eyeing the menu with the same eager hunger.

Food and drink review: Bermondsey Street Baccalà

We were presented with three menus – wine, food and a whole menu dedicated to extra virgin olive oil. As the chef talked us through the menu, he highlighted one with notes of basil from his home region of Marche. We dipped fresh bread into the Leccio del Corno olive oil, green in colour and delicious in taste.

Moving to starters, the primo piatto, we shared tuna tartare, asparagus, caper leaves, horseradish and salsa tonnata and whipped salted cod, mussels, borlotti and puntarelle. Baccalà translates to salted cod, and the namesake didn’t disappoint. A fresh and flavourful start to the meal.

A note from the hosts… “Contemporary but true to our roots, Baccalà is a genuine Italian restaurant and wine bar in Bermondsey, serving seafood and wine, tailored with fresh, seasonal produce for those who want to become our friends and family.”

Moving to secondi, it was time for pasta, where I ate a dish that I never wanted to end. The linguine with prawns, lemon and three peppers was moreish as I twirled it onto my fork. Mouthful after mouthful of rich sauce cut through with black pepper and the freshness of lemon. The second pasta dish of artichoke lasagne with langoustine, native lobster and crab was nothing to scoff at either.

We then shared the monkfish, artichokes and broad beans – and praised the chef for flavour combinations we hadn’t seen anywhere else.

We finished the evening with one tiramisu and two spoons. It towered on the plate, a perfect square of a perfect dessert. It was the standout dish of the evening, or perhaps I just have a sweet tooth – but it was a truly perfect creaminess blended with the notes of Italian espresso.

Sitting on the pricier side of a meal out, it’s the perfect occasion dinner for when you’re ready to splurge on high-quality Italian dishes.