When raucous Frost Fairs were held on the frozen Thames – and punters risked an icy death

What a tourist attraction the Thames would be if we still had harsh winters. Can you imagine Tower Bridge covered in glittering icicles, like a huge fairytale castle belonging to the Snow Queen?

At night the river front would look like one of those Christmas cards you get from your posher sort of aunt; St Paul's bathed in the silvery glow of the moon and covered in glitter .

That's how it looked for Southwark residents for centuries (well, obviously they didn’t have Tower Bridge then, but you get the idea).

One of the first recorded accounts of the river freezing over is in 1309 when a severe winter silenced the babble of the Thames and threw a web of sparkly icicles over the borough.

London Bridge was damaged by the weather with three of its arches being wrecked, and as the ice melted they became dislodged and floated downstream.

Back then keeping warm was a bit of drag, there being no nice warm fleeces in the shops and rather a lack of decent anoraks. You had to be content with a woollen shawl, a scratchy woollen dress and lots of pairs of socks (underwear, especially thermals hadn't been invented yet, so it was a bit breezy in some regions).

The people of Southwark were bloomin' freezing. No central heating, no double glazing drafts in every nook and cranny (literally) and very little warm food to eat. It was bad enough in the summer when bread went mouldy quickly but during this particular winter it was frozen solid. To keep it warm it was wrapped up in straw but that didn’t keep Jack Frost from breathing on it. Before anyone could sit down in front of ye telly with a bowl of cabbage soup they had to thaw their bread out over the meagre fire.

In 1433 things were a bit better - the bread was still frozen but so was the wine, which was sold by the pound - hurrah, the first ice lolly, and alcoholic too! What were they moaning about?

Just over a hundred years later in 1536 King Henry Vlll saddled up his horse and rode down the frozen Thames from Westminster to Greenwich. Blimey, that ice must have been strong to take his weight - bet the wife was hoping he'd fall through.

A few years later people were making the most of the icy weather and even looked forward to it and before you knew it a whole winter trade had sprung up on the river. People could buy or make their own ice skates out of smooth animal leg bones attached to their boots. Soon a whole load of Torvill and Deans were pirouetting and spinning across the river from Southwark to Wapping and back.

Those that couldn’t skate danced, gliding across the still waters like Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers. No doubt the quacks of the day made a profit on their ointments and tinctures; many suffered bruises and cracked ribs when their skating routine went pear shaped.

For the less energetic there were other attractions on the Thames. Loads of little booths set up shop selling toasted bread and warm, spiced wine along with fruit and sweets. You could even buy meat for the Sunday roast, as there were more than a few butchers vying for trade. The City agreed to licence more meat sellers as the fish supply was short. This was still a time when the Thames was relatively clean and fishermen were a regular sight on the shores of Southwark. But of course, once the ice appeared that was their living out of the window.

The year 1683 saw one of the coldest winters on record. The river was completely glassed over with ice eleven inches thick. It was a harsh time; London was still pretty rural and the lack of buildings ensured an icy blast whipped around the quiet streets. Everything was covered in a white frosting; the eaves of houses hung with dagger-like icicles. Everyone huddled around their log fires, the only sound coming from the clack of chattering teeth.

Here is a souvenir silver spoon from the Frost Fair of 1683 inscribed with: ‘This was bought at the faire kept upon the Midle of ye Thames against ye Temple in the great frost on the 29 of January 1683/4’.

Those poor souls that did have to venture out took their lives in their hands. Couriers leaving London for the counties were found at the side of the road frozen to death along with their horses.

Nevertheless, the frost fairs went on and a jolly good time was had by all. Even King Charles ll visited the Great Frost Fair on the Thames. By his time they'd really got the hang of skating and all sorts of booths appeared selling everything from hair ornaments to oranges. It was a bit like an iced East Street Market. Novelties of the day were the printing presses on the ice where punters could get their name printed on a certificate as a kind of souvenir. There were even barbers who would shave customers on the middle of the Thames - apparently this was a rather impressive tale to tell your mates. Obviously a bloke thing...

One of the main reasons that the Thames froze over every year was London Bridge. Because it had been built with tiny arches the flow of the water was very restricted and as soon as ice slowed it down it set solid. In the late 1700s boiling water was poured over the wheels of the bridge waterworks to keep them moving but it hardly touched the problem.

For centuries London Bridge was the Thames' only dry crossing

Of course, the saying skating on thin ice had to come from somewhere. Indeed many did and ended up going to a watery grave. In 1795 a man fell overboard from his boat, disappearing into the depths of the Thames which promptly froze. When it started to thaw again the man was seen floating through London Bridge encased in ice with only his arms and head being visible.

One year panic broke out when the ice could be heard cracking up. Everyone ran for the shore where the bored and skint watermen refused them access until they paid a toll. You can't blame them really, as they lost a lot of trade during the frosts and their families went hungry.

When the ice finally did break it did a lot of damage for those along the riverfront. Many boats were torn from their moorings or broken open by icebergs. One house in Rotherhithe had a particularly large boat moored to it. As the ice cracked up the boat floated out into the river, taking the whole house with it.

A view of the Thames from Rotherhithe Stairs during the frost in 1789. Frost Fair on the ice with crowds and frozen ships. Hanging from a ship is a cage with a sign, 'The original cat in the cage, by Roberts'.

By the nineteenth century a proper Dickensian type of frost fair was a regular occurrence in Southwark. There were stalls with brightly coloured awnings selling gin, gingerbread, toys and books. There was mulled wine, roast beef, roast mutton, hot chicken, roast chestnuts, cough candies, brandy balls, black pudding, plum pudding, huge pies and sugary pancakes.

Colour aquatint showing the frost fair on the Thames published 18th February 1814. Aquatint. 'View of the Thames off Three Cranes Wharf when frozen Monday 31st January to Saturday 5th February 1814 on which a fair was held attended by many hundred persons'.

Entertainment was lavish with travelling theatres putting on productions in full costume and puppet shows with scary old Mr Punch whacking his missus over the head. All along the waterfront were show people such as fire-eaters, stiltwalkers, sword swallowers and jugglers, not to mention the odd bearded lady (she should have got a shave in the middle of the Thames). All the locals joined in the games of football and skittles.

There were even horse races - suppose if the ice had caved in they would have been seahorses - oh come on, it is the pantomime season. The watermen by now had put down their oars and started flogging beer instead. Oh yes, there were plenty of drunks sliding about in an alcoholic haze. As one writer put it "And folk do tipple without fear to sink more liquor than the fish beneath do drink". And rightly so.

Frost Fair on the River Thames. Coloured and varnished aquatint. General view of the frost fair on the river Thames in 1814.

An elephant famously walked over the frozen Thames during the last Frost Fair in 1814.

Crime of course was rife in Southwark and the fear of frostbite didn’t worry the light-fingered. As the rich flocked to the Thames so did the robbers, footpads and pickpockets. At least they couldn't throw you in the river.

The last great frost fair was in 1813 when the December snow fell for forty-eight hours. But once the new London Bridge was complete that was the end of the frozen Thames. However, in the 1840s the Surrey Canal froze over but was used to locals' advantage. Blocks of ice were cut away and stored in nearby icehouses to keep things refrigerated.

In 1881 there came the greatest snowstorm of the nineteenth century. Postmen got lost in the blizzards and tradesmen used sleds to convey their wares. Massive blocks of ice as big as a cottage floated down the river, forcing any ships to berth and unload their cargoes onto carts which delivered via road. It happened again in 1895 when a severe frost left miniature icebergs all along the shoreline at Rotherhithe.

It's unlikely we'll ever see the Thames freeze over again. Bigger bridge arches, central heating, traffic exhaust, global warming and larger buildings have ensured our winters are much warmer in the city. And of course, big fluffy coats and thermal smalls keep us all draft-free. Happy New Year!

However, inspired by the days when the River Thames froze over and traders took to the ice, the 2026 revival of the ‘Frost Fair’ offering free performances, workshops, and music-filled pubs takes place this month.

On Saturday 31st January, Better Bankside are brining the ‘Frost Fair’ back to London, from 11am – 3pm and an ‘After Hours’ celebration from 7pm onwards.